Are you in Florida? Are you looking for some quality one on one HDR training?
Here’s why I ask.

I am heading to Ft. Lauderdale (soon) to do some one on one training for an established architectural photographer. Specifically to show them my HDR workflow. They reached out to me after surfing the net tirelessly looking for those using HDR for architectural photography.

The reason I’m posting this is two fold.

1. Yes I’m available for one on one training (for a fair price or trade of services)
2. This is last minute and I’m planning on driving which means I could make myself available to work with another photographer or photographers in Florida.

I could take multiple routes to get to Ft. Lauderdale.  Here is a map of my starting point and destination (CLICK IMAGE TO ENLARGE).

As you can see, by choosing which interstate(s) to take from NW to SE, I could hit any part of the state easily.  The date is NOT set yet, but will be finalized in the next 48-72 hours.  Basically as early as this tuesday July 27th through August 5th.  That date could be determined by YOU effectively because I told the other photographer I am putting the word out on Twitter and my blog first.

If you live in florida and have been wanting to either kick start your HDR knowledge or take it to the next level, then email me at DIGITAL COAST IMAGE at GMAIL dot COM.

The photographer in Ft. Lauderdale has requested one on one only to use their equipment and software, so even if you live in that city, I wouldn’t be able to include you in that session.

This is your chance to help determine where and when my first workshop will likey be (city).

I get emails weekly with questions as to how I’m achieving my results and about my HDR pipeline.  I always defer to just watch the blog for any information about workshops and/or any video training online or off.  That ends up leading to more questions about what kind of training I plan to provide.  One on one, workshops, online training, etc.

I also get asked what books I have read or who I trained under to learn what I know about HDR.  None and nobody are the answers, therefore I can’t point you in any direction to learn what I know.  Everything I have learned and will teach are techniques, tricks and work arounds that I had to figure out on my own.  When I started looking around at what others were teaching about HDR, that was when I first realized how little information there was about pipelines/workflows for commercial work.

If you are looking to just use HDR for artistic images or creating grunge, that is so easy.  Just use Photomatix and ramp up the sliders. There really is no hard core training needed for that genre if you are just looking to create grunge.  There are some teaching how to take it a step further in post, but from what I’ve seen they are actually teaching you photoshop techniques and most of the magic they are teaching are photoshop tutorials, not HDR workflows.

I have no issues with that look personally, but The Robb Report, Architectural Digest, duPont Registry and other publications demand realism.  And the first time you shoot for an interior designer, custom home builder or architect… I can promise you that they will NOT tolerate hue shifts and color saturation issues.  Your repeat business from them will largely be determined by how well you can represent their product.  My experience has been that they expect their work to be represented as precisely as they created it.

Most folks that tap my shoulder requesting training are looking for something different than what they have found out there already. So let me start by addressing interest and needs.  I get requests about my workflow from two sets of photographers.

The first is those that are INTERESTED in creating realistic looking images via my HDR pipeline, but it isn’t do or die for them.  Interests are everything from landscapes to HDR portraits. Most of these photographers who have emailed me are either advanced amateurs or shooting professionally part time.  In either case, they are serious about quality and want a more definitive recipe to get better results.

The other camp is comprised  of photographers either shooting full time and looking to add real estate / architecture to their current services or photographers that are already shooting real estate, but want to know  how I’m tackling all the annoying problems associated with shooting interiors.  This group NEEDS (and wants) all the little tips and tricks in my pipeline from capture to final image to better tackle exposure issues associated with shooting interiors.

LOCATION, LOCATION, LOCATION

If you would be interested in attending a workshop covering any of my workflows, then shoot me an email and let me know what the nearest city to you is (with an airport).  I’m not against traveling abroad if there is enough interest.  However, if I’m going to fly into an area, I will do so only if there is enough demand in that region to make the time for a workshop.

The last time I posted my email here I got spammed badly so I’ll just ask that you use the email linked at the bottom of my home page http://www.digitalcoastimage.com/

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I’ll be speaking briefly about HDR and HDR Video at NAB via an invite from Mike Seymour of FXguide.com.  It falls under their time slot in the Post Pit at the NAB Show. If you plan on being at NAB, come say hi  :)

Tuesday April 13th, 4pm – 4:30pm.  Lots of topics going on at the Post Pit Mon-Wed linked here:
http://www.nabshow.com/2010/education/post_pit.asp

I’ll be in Vegas from Friday April 9th (land 5pm) and leaving Friday April 16th (afternoon flight).  A “Work-cation”.  I’ll be shooting far too much and often to consider it a vacation.  But this is what workaholic geeks do in their spare time!

I was interviewed by Scott Wyden about a month ago and it just hit is feed this week (blog post).  It was actually a list of questions that I answered and submitted a handful of photos as well.  If you’ve listened to the recent podcasts I was on ( Digital Convergence Podcast – http://hdriblog.com/hdr-and-hdr-video-digital-convergence-podcast/ ) and ( Real Estate Photography Podcast – http://hdriblog.com/real-estate-photography-podcast/ ) then you have heard some of what I covered in this interview.  Scott’s interview went a little deeper in some areas so there is new content/info you didn’t hear on the podcast interviews.

If you wanted a deeper and more in depth look at how I migrated into HDR and Photography, then you can read the interview on his blog:

http://scottwyden.com/a-photographers-interview-with-michael-james/

I’ve recently used the Pentax k-x a bit more to test out the in camera HDR feature.  At first I was under whelmed, but like usual, I messed with settings on my own until I got results I’m happy with.  Maybe not elated with, but happy/satisfied.  First I’ll post a few images, then I’ll explain how I tweaked camera settings to get to a warm, happy place.  Again, these shots were not single frame captures, they utilized the Pentax k-x merge to HDR (in camera) feature and then I tweaked them quickly in post. (They were all taken with the Pentax K-x “kit” lens)

I initially discussed the Pentax k-x some time ago and you can see my comments and test shots from that post: http://hdriblog.com/pentax-k-x-initial-test/

I still do not like the results from using the “HDR Strong” which is also HDR 2 under the two in camera HDR settings.  ”HDR Standard” which is also HDR 1 under the menu settings is less dramatic and the following workflow is what I used to get the image results above.

If you’ve never tried this k-x setting you need to do a few things to your camera settings…

1. Press the MENU button to go into the Menu settings and change file format to JPEG and press the menu button again to get back to the typical LCD settings.

2. Then press the INFO button which is just above the Menu button. On the top line over to the right four squares is the menu option “HDR OFF“.  You can change this option two ways.  You can highlight that option and then use the scroll wheel with your thumb moving it to the right to flip to HDR 1, then HDR 2  –OR– you can highlight HDR OFF and press the OK button and then a screen pops up with the three options and just select the one you want and hit OK again.  Obviously, the fastest way to do this is the first way I described.  Highlight HDR OFF and then use the scroll wheel to change it to HDR 1 or HDR 2.  You’ll see shortly why that scroll wheel is the better option.

Each of the images above are a combination of two captures that I brought into photoshop.  Those two captures which were shot from the EXACT same location on a tri-pod were taken by….

1. First taking a shot using the “HDR-1″ setting (also called HDR Standard).
2. Press and hold the shutter so that it takes the 3 consecutive shots (it is auto bracketing and will then immediately process the three shots over the next 10-12 seconds).
3. Then hit the INFO button & scroll the wheel to the right once to select “HDR-2″ (also called HDR Strong) and again press/hold the shutter to fire off the second bracket.

Now here’s the key… Before taking each exposure I forced the exposure compensation to at LEAST +1EV for each of the above outside shots and adjusted the interior shots up by almost +2EV.  That can be changed by using your right index finger and holding down the button just to the left of the shutter then use your right thumb to scroll the wheel to the right to increase the EV number.  Why do this? …

.. because I found if you fire off the camera when in either of the two HDR modes with exposure compensation set at ZERO, the merge to HDR and in camera tonemapping seems to over crush the highlights and you end up with very “dirty” mid tones and darker shadows than you would want ideally.

The camera is of course firing off three images. One under exposed, one middle, one over exposed.  It then merges those 3 bracketed shots to HDR in-camera, it then processes and tonemaps the HDR and saves the result as a JPEG.  You can’t get anything but a JPEG as a final file (unfortunately).

When I got back from shooting, I would then open the first shot (HDR 1 / HDR Standard) in photoshop.  Then FILE>PLACE the second image  (HDR  2 / HDR Strong) over top of the first image. I then drop the opacity of the top layer (HDR Strong) to about 30% as a starting point and then change its blend mode in the layers palette to either OVERLAY or SOFT LIGHT.  Then I just adjust opacity of that layer up or down to get the feel of the image to a satisfying level.  Save and export.

You may find that you like the HDR Strong layer better than the HDR Standard (your call and whatever floats your boat).  If so, simply reverse the layers so that the bottom layer is HDR Strong image and with the standard NORMAL blend mode and then have the top level be the HDR Standard image and change its opacity and blend mode as described above.

GOTCHAS - If you moved the camera slightly when you switched the camera menu settings between shots, you may need to use Photoshop’s align feature.  You click the bottom layer and shift select the other layer so they are both selected.  Then from the file menu EDIT>AUTO ALIGN LAYERS to have photoshop align the pixels.

UPSIDE:
You don’t need to do any MERGE to HDR and tonemapping because the Pentax k-x HDR Mode is doing that for you.

DOWNSIDE:
Fast moving objects make this two pronged approach a challenge and works best with static scenes. You need to use a tri-pod for best results. The time the k-x takes to process each shot can slow you down when shooting like this. You need a program that utilizes blend modes like Photoshop or a free application like GIMP (which is an open source, photoshop “like” app).

A Canon HDR Photographer’s Story is a blog post by Brian Matiash where he reviews the Promote Control from the Canon shooter’s perspective.  Good review.

http://brianmatiash.com/blog/2010/03/04/gear-review-the-promote-control-a-canon-hdr-photographers-story/

He is also an editor over at HDR Spotting

I had the pleasure of speaking with Carl Olson of 16 x 9 Cinema who runs the Digital Convergence Podcast. He interviewed me about HDR photography, HDR Video and in the process I also explained a little about how I got started and a bit about my typical workflow.

The podcast where I discuss HDR – HDR Video is linked on his blog HERE.

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Show notes & his iTunes feed is on his blog and I’ll repost that and shownotes below as well:

AAC (iTunes) version here: Digital Convergence Episode 5

RSS Feed: Subscribe to the 16×9 Cinema Digital Convergence Podcast

Subscribe in iTunes here: 16×9 Cinema Digital Convergence Podcast

Links from the podcast:

My Website: Digital Coast Image

Michael James on Twitter: HDRphotography

Jay Burlage – HDR filmmaker (Michael James cites Jay as a leading source of information on the OpenMoco project and creator of gorgeous time-lapse cinema. Check out Jay’s video below.)

Jay Burlage on Twitter: MiLapse

Jay Burlage’s YouTube Channel: MiLapse

OpenMoco – Open-Source Photographic Motion-Control

Promote Control

LR/Enfuse – Enfuse for Lightroom

Red Epic / Scarlet

Lens distortion correction can be achieved using PT Lens. It is available for both the PC and the Mac. I often forget about these little tools that make a huge difference in image quality. If you shoot real estate or architecture, you need PT Lens to remove bowed lines that should be straight.

I often get asked how I deal with distortion typical with wide angle lenses and PT Lens is something I’ve been using since 2007 when I was googling around for lens distortion correction solutions. That and I tend to try and get my tri-pod to about the mid-point of the room. Obviously a tilt and shift lens is ideal to not have to deal with this in post, but on capture.

Rather than grab photos from their site and post them here, you should use their interactive options to see before and after photos to get an idea of how it corrects lens distortion.

The link to PT Lens main web site HERE

From their navigation on the left, choose “Examples” to then view before and after photos. I’d link it directly, but I think they are using frames on their site and I didn’t see a different URL.

And an alternative for Mac users…

Back in 2007, there was no Mac solution so I used an alternative developers plugin that uses the PT Lens database.  Word of advice, if you need to use this other plugin (linked below) instead of PT Lens (such as if you are still running 10.4), make sure you SAVE before you launch the filter in Photoshop because it has caused PS to crash on me before (normally fast clicking through the dialogs has caused crashes).

Kekus Lens Fix

The 72 dpi myth was something that had me scratching my head years ago.  I was wanting to use some high end compositing packages to edit photos, but I was concerned about the fact that they deal in video “speak” and 72dpi was/is the norm.  So I was wondering how I could get an image I was working on in 300 dpi, there and back and not lose resolution.  I felt so dumb when I found out about the whole DPI myth and how it was/is tied to legacy printers, etc.

I still get people losing sleep over this stuff so I’m going to link a site with a ton of info on it.  There are a TON of other sites online.  If you want more opinions, just google:

72 dpi
72 dpi myth
The DPI Myth

…etc.

All About Digital Photos
http://www.rideau-info.com/photos/index.html

The Myth About DPI
http://www.rideau-info.com/photos/mythdpi.html

How to Properly Change DPI
http://www.rideau-info.com/photos/changedpi.html

I hope this helps clarify.

Christian Bloch who runs HDRlabs.com and is a VFX Artist at EdenFX just posted a great overview video on Vimeo. It covers using a high res HDR image as backdrop for an entire green screen scene. “The Advantage is total flexibiliy of viewpoint and exposure, leaving more time for detail enhancements and animations.”

He also posted a video “Demonstrating using Gigapano sized photographic imagery for rapid prototyping shots of city flyovers.”

Both are excellent examples of using images in a video/compositing post production environment. Even if you don’t intend to learn video editing or compositing they are worth watching just to see how the photos were used in concert with 3D/2D compositing.

Christian is the author of The HDRI Handbook which I wish I had found back when it was first released! It would have saved me time figuring out a ton of geeky stuff I found out on my own through various sources online. It is not a beginner’s book by any means, but an amazing reference.  He’s announced he is working on a 2nd edition this year and I’ll definitely be getting that one as well when it releases.